Patek Philippe Ref. 1593

*For optimal viewing, please enlarge the video to full screen mode.

Personal example — Ref. 1593P on the wrist. The case shape and size offer a distinctive mid-century design with plenty of presence and a timeless appeal.

Having explored the history and design of the Patek Philippe Ref. 1593 in an earlier article HERE. I wanted to take a closer look at some of the details that distinguish individual examples of this unusual reference known by the “hourglass” nickname. I think it's instructive, to be deliberate in understanding some of the details that were different regarding the dial and crystal designs observed on this reference when it was originally introduced.

The period catalogue illustrations offer a useful point of reference for understanding the different crystal profiles and dial finishes associated with the 1593. These details are particularly interesting when viewed alongside the watch itself.

Opposing period catalogue images illustrate a couple of different dial options offered on the Ref. 1593. While the images aren’t crisp, one can clearly note the differences between the peaked crystal on the left and the arced crystal on the right. Images courtesy of John Reardon, Patek Philippe In America.

In the accompanying video, I discuss my own example and the distinctions that drew me to it. Macro photography reveals the subtleties of its dial finishing, offering a closer look at details that are difficult to appreciate in conventional photographs.

Upper and lower dial sections as viewed under digital microscope. The views illustrate the opposing, diagonal satin finish observed on each section. The sub-seconds hash markers show how untouched, original engraved enamel should appear.

Enlarged view with some optical distortion, of Ref. 425 illustrating the bifurcated dial planes with opposing diagonal satin finish. Image courtesy of Jacek Kozubek, www.Tropicalwatch.com.

The dial finish with the bifurcated sections and diagonal, satin finish was not unique to the ref. 1593, as it was also used on dials for other Patek references, such as the 425. The original catalogue illustrations and close-up images provide a visual record of these variations. They offer a reminder of the importance of examining the ref. 1593 beyond its distinctive case shape, which is the usual primary area of focus.